Abe from Seaforth has taken great strides in the last year or so and has arguably produced the finest selection of chocolate of any of the new wave of chocolate makers. It’s a hard job, fraught with trying to reach economies of scale, struggling with the-the time and resource requirements and trying to find the tipping point of being able to make it pay before resources are exhausted. This new 60% milk bar certainly moves him closer to that point – surely, just surely, people with any sense of taste will appreciate the beauty of this chocolate?
Milk bars at this cocoa level have been tried many times before, but most seem to be dominated by more of a milk powder profile than anything. Thankfully Abe’s version is still true in part to the power that Dominican Republic cacao can offer. There’s a sharpness to the cacao element that hugs the sugar element very tightly to bring a coexistence of sweet and sour sublimely into play. The milk aspect is there but its so far hidden as almost non-existent. It seems to offer more of a creaminess than any sort of distraction from the Chinese aspect to the aspect. It is this that I particularly appreciate. Milk chocolate, to my mind, shouldn’t have any character of the milk present – certainly not in this part of the chocolate market.
It would be churlish of me to ignore the ethical features of this chocolate, especially if you are new to the Seaforth brand, but the ingredients are Fairtrade sourced and transported by carbon-neutral methods. For many of the established chocolate makers that try and appear hip, tangential and obscure, should just cut the crap and make chocolate like Abe.
You can get this chocolate from Cocoa Runners.