Pump Street Bakery 58% Madagascar

Tragedy has struck. I have some magical shrinking chocolate. I first opened this new dark milk from The Pump Street Bakery a week ago. In the intervening, stress-filled week, I have managed to consume all but six remaining squares. I know that each of the other twenty-or-so others helped immensely with whatever tribulation I was faced with at the time. The way I see this new offering is that it is a chocolate bullet. It’s a heating-seeking weapon of mass enjoyment.

Pump Street Bakery 58%

During the week my weapon of choice is generally 100% – basically whatever I get my hands on. Occasionally I’ll reach in to my cupboard and lock onto some other high-cocoa chocolate that I’ve opened to review or do tasting notes. Rarely will I wish to revisit milk chocolate. The main reason is that it doesn’t give me that momentarily distraction that dark chocolate does. I normally just use milk chocolate to refuel after a heavy session gardening. But this new creation satisfies both needs: not only does it give a heady dose of creaminess that the base layer of my needs require, but it also gives a flavoursome hit of acidity. In concert they produce something immanently intoxicating.

Down to my last two squares I will endeavour to portray the rich, creamy, honey-like dominant flavours. My penultimate square is solely focused on that – until the melt has finished then my mouth is awash with summer fruits. You could even call it Eton Mess. The cream, sweetness, light red fruits are all there. This is in contrast to earlier in the week when I witnessed so much more ‘punch’. Perhaps it’s the warmer weather but it feels even more indulgent now as it did then. It actually makes me wish I was in the garden watching the golden glow of the sun as it tips over the horizon. It’s that sort of happy feeling that this chocolate consumes you with.

Perhaps the sunshine and the blissful family day which have given me rose-tinted glasses? Or perhaps this is damn fine chocolate. I’m inclined to go with the latter. And I’m sure you will too.

I’ve not spoken about the origin – most probably because I was a touch distracted. It’s Madagascar with beans from radiant Bertil Akesson. If that isn’t sufficient pedigree to give it a go, I don’t know what is. If you like the sound of it, then you can get this chocolate directly from Chris, and others from my good self. Fill your boots with Chris though.


Lee McCoy

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