We just love finding these new and unique chocolate makers around the world and while Germany may not jump out at many people as a hotbed for bean-to-bar chocolate making, in one corner of Berlin there’s a company called Edelmond that are doing some excellent work – especially in the higher cocoa end of the market.
A few months ago I imported some of these more intense bars which included this 92% chocolate and while I’m less than enamored with the packaging, I understand they’re a small company and need to focus resources on the quality of their products rather than their appearance. I wish more new entrants into the market would have more of an emphasis on the product rather than its marketing – but that’s a distraction from the task at hand.
Strangely the beans for this bar were also sourced from the same co-operative as the last two reviews: CONCADO in the Dominican Republic. While both of those were milks were not a massive amount of the natural flavour of the origin came through, there is no mistaking the natural brutishness that comes across as balsamic vinegar, hazelnut and a heap load of sharp spices. Not so much of the leather and tobacco, though.
There isn’t much else going on. But at this level of cocoa often the flavours are lost in the white noise scenario where the flavours are so intense, so compact and so direct that any form of subtlety is lost in the strength. Although higher cocoas can produce more whimsical characteristics that often occurs when the butter element is much more prominent than on this occasion. Here, the solids are certainly dialed up. If you like sharper notes where the flavour of the cocoa is more of a blunt tool than a watchmakers instrument, then this chocolate should be for you.