Demarquette Araguani 72%

The only problem with having a memory like a sieve is that when Marc Demarquette was talking about his range of origin bars the other day I couldn’t remember which one we were both raving about – that one was exclusive to him and a true work of genius. As a result I bought home this Araguani bar that appears to be made with Valrhona couverture (but I could be wrong). Now there’s not a lot of information about the chocolate’s provenance but I do believe its made from a blend of both Criollo and Triniatario beans from what I believe to be Venezuela – which is strange as there’s an Araguani in Brazil, although the Aragueney is the national tree of Venezuela.

Having this bar wrapped in mysticism does nothing for me. I know Marc has plans to revolutionise his bar, but I believe its more the fault of Valrhona not to give clear information. But that being said, it is more of a flavoursome bar which I’ve missed since the Mast Brothers Black Truffle bar. There’s nothing at all light about this bar, it’s very much like a thick, dark winter’s night. But with that there’s not the typical acidity as one might expect, instead there’s more of a clotted cream underlying edge to it with little hints of caramel – its just that there’s no top-note of sweetness. It’s just all broody teenage angst.

Conversely the aroma is very much of HP sauce – spicy, vinegar combined with the inside of new leather shoes – which seems to have a strange sweetness to it. It’s a bi-polar bar of chocolate. One mouthful with have charcteristics of the Michel Cluizel Noir Infini whilst other times its more of a splendid, soft affair. It’s this harshness which does detract from the enjoyment as there’s no clean acidity to lift it just as lemon seems to bring out the flavour in food – it was just a touch to sanguine for my liking.

Of course I can’t love everything Marc does, even if his filled chocolates are the joint finest I’ve tried this year, its just that this bar isn’t to my taste.

Where To Buy This Araguani 72% Bar

 

Quick Review
  • 68% – just didn’t do it for me.

 

Lee McCoy

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