And there was me hoping “cioccolato fondente extra” meant something like “extra luxurious dark chocolate” so I could make some witty comment about it being nothing of the sort. Amadei has a very good reputation in the chocolate world. But other’s that inhabit that planet have started to doubt its superiority. You see, I’ve been giving them some good ratings, not fantastic though, when I’ve reviewed their Jamaica Cru 70% and their Chuao 70% and I was fairly disappointed with their Porcelana 70%. I just don’t think Amedei compares favourably to other chocolate makers of the same ilk, namely Pralus and Michel Cluizel.
That opening paragraph doesn’t mean that I didn’t enjoy the bar, as I sort of did, it’s just that it just didn’t reach the heights the brand has historically set. The plentiful information contained on the packaging paints a romantic scene and heightens expectations – just as film trailers. But as we all know those five minute adverts often contain the entire collection of scenes worth talking about. Here Amedei says this bar as being a blend of Trinitario and Criollo and ‘enclosing all the flavour that real chocolate is capable of giving’ – utter tosh. This is one of the mildest ‘gourmet’ bars there is.
This Amedei Toscano Black 70% offers a flavour that is a cross between Vimto and a Magnum ice-cream. The beginning of the flavour spectrum is fruity and sweet and which descends into a long saccharine tone very reminiscent of those chocolate ice-creams that were very popular in the 1990’s. There’s not acidity in at all – and only the slightest amount of the natural cacao astringency is present in the aroma.
Although I instinctively find it agreeable as it’s not bad chocolate, it just seems that the natural cacao flavour has been blended and conched out of all recognition. It’s almost confectionary and not fine chocolate at all. It’s almost not worth talking about. Luckily I’ve got some Jean-Paul Hévin beside me to offer a bit of depth. If you like the thought of enjoying gourmet dark chocolate but can’t actually handle some of the full-flavour stuff then give this a go. But if you’re a dark chocolate lover then I suggest you already know to give this one a miss?
I can’t be bothered to give a full rating. I’m just going to give it a 55%.